Camino Completo

19 05 2008

I arrived to Santiago two days ago on Saturday, May 17th. I walked into town with my friend Anton (from Barcelona) who I walked with for much of the last portion of the Camino. We walked to the Cathedral and when we got there, we just stood there for a while and took it all in. We had arrived after one month and almost 800 km (500 miles) and countless pains and aches and glasses of wine and cafes con leche with chocolate croissantes for breakfast. You can eat anything you want on the Camino and you´ll still lose weight. You´re walking that much.

It´s a strange feeling to be done. I find myself still looking for yellow arrows to show me the way. And more than once I´ve reached for my walking stick as I was leaving a restaurant only to remember that it´s resting in my hotel room. It´s a bittersweet ending I guess. Walking the Camino was the best thing I ever did and it was exactly what I needed to do right now, but I didn´t want it to end. I want to keep walking and talking to people about life and what we´ve thought about and learned on the Camino. I became very accustomed to the simple lifestyle of walking 10 hours a day and being thrilled when I could take a hot shower.

The first day after I was done I found it really strange to be in a city with everyday life happening. I found myself rejecting all of it. I found it hard to relate to other non-pilgrims when I´d be talking to them. People wearing clean clothes, traveling as part of an organized tour group, shops selling all sorts of goods you just don´t see or need during the Camino. Excess. That´s the best way to describe how all of it seemed to me. Most everything around was not needed. I had become used to the simple villages with one restaurant, one bar and open land for raising farm animals. I found it far more interesting to watch a sheep chew grass endlessly than talking to these tourbus ´pilgrims´ staying in their fancy hotels wearing scarves with the word ´peregrino´printed on it. Ugh. Sounds a bit harsh I know but it´s the truth. And sometimes the truth hurts. Not as much as jumping on a bicycle with no seat, but it hurts.

One thing I learned early in the Camino is that material things weigh me down and I was much lighter both physically and mentally when I shed all that weight in Burgos and sent it along. Then today I picked up the THREE packages I had sent to the post office during the Camino and I can´t believe how much crap I had! And now I´m going to take that crap and send it back to the U.S. So effectively I brought 15kg (30+ pounds) of stuff to Spain just to mail it from one city to the next and then to the U.S. That is amazing.

It´s been over a month since I´ve been in a car, bus, train or been moved in anyway besides my own two feet. Kind of strange. It´s also been a month since I´ve put any hair product in my hair. Just some random factoids I thought I´d share.

There´s a lot more I want to write about but I´m still digesting everything.  To put it in technology terms, since everyone loves a good technology metaphor, I´ve collected a lot of data and now I need to process all of it.

And now that it´s over, I need to find my own yellow arrows to follow. I had originally planned to go to Barcelona after the Camino but one day as I was walking I got the idea to go to Morocco and go down to the Sahara desert which I´ve always wanted to do. So now, those are my next steps. I booked a ticket to Malaga in the south of Spain for tomorrow afternoon, and then I´ll find a way to get to Tangiers, inshallah, where I look forward to partaking in a fine hookah and continuing on my own Camino.





Hasta luega por a hora

25 04 2008

I´m sure the Spanish in the subject is not proper but I´m proud that I could come up with that.  I´m logging onto the internet for the last time in a while this evening as I prepare for the rest of the Camino.  I find I don´t really need to be up to date on all my Facebook friends requests (yes I am popular) or being up to date on the Red Wings, Tigers, Pistons, WNBA or the news or countless other things and thinking about those things as I´m walking.

I´m in a town named Santa Domingo at the moment, heading off tomorrow to Belorado, I hope.  That will put me at 583 km to go (363 miles).   Either way you look at it, that´s a lot of miles.  But I have the feeling that when it´s all said and done and I´m back in my SF apartment, I´m going to really miss this.  It´s not very often when all you´re really focused on doing every day is eating, walking and finding a place to rest your head.  And everything you have you are carrying on your back.

I saw the coolest thing today as I was walking down a country road between some wheat fields.  A shepherd was moving his entire flock of sheep down the road and I had to step aside and wait as they passed by.  Their were at least 250 sheep, some with bells around their necks, and two dogs on either side making sure none of the sheep get out of line.  It was really a site to see.  I got a video of it (of course) and will post it up soon.

I just bought some bread and chocolate for my breakfast tomorrow, and a banana and trail mix for the day.  We´re going to be crossing the Meseta in a few days which is a rolling expanse of land with little shade that goes on and on as far as the eyes can see.  I´ll need to fill the Camelbak up completely for that trek.  The sun is starting to beat down pretty hard these days but it´s still very welcome if it means not having to deal with any rain.  I´m starting to make good progress each day and I hope it´ll only get better as the journey goes on.

Finally, I´ve met a lot of people in the first week, and along with the British guys I´ve been walking with, we´ve started giving everyone nicknames.  Most of them don´t know about their nicknames yet but maybe someday we´ll reveal it to them.

  • Justin Timberlake – a young guy from Virginia who looks like JT and was sunburned to hell when we met him yesterday.  He had drank two large beers and a large tupperware container of red beans and rice and we last saw him stumbling around Najera lost.
  • Mick Jagger – a big German guy that looks spot on like him.
  • Dwight Eisenhower – an American guy, older who is ex-military but still walks and talks and acts like he´s in the miiltary.
  • Paraffin lamps – a British term used to describe a drunk/homeless guy.  Called so because it rhymes with the word tramp.  We saw several of these roaming around town in Logroño.
  • Zorro – a Spanish guy I walked with a couple of days whose name begins with a Z (Zuar).  When you call him Zorro you generally should follow it up with three quick ´kish kish kish´as you make the mark of Zorro in the air.  He´ll always laugh at that.
  • M*A*S*H – the name given to myself and two other Americans because we were always seeking medical help for our blisters and an assortment of other injuries.
  • Bert and Ernie – the two British guys I´ve been walking with since pretty much the start.  Their names are Dave and Ernie and they´re a riot to be around, especially after a couple of beers.
  • Berlin – a young guy from Berlin who actually started walking the Camino FROM Berlin!!  He started in December and has been walking ever since.  Wow.

That´s about all for now.  I´ll try and post again as I near the end of my trip or soon thereafter.  Until then, go Pistons and I promise I will get to your Facebook friend request really soon.

Buen camino to all of you.